Acne/Blemish Covering Make-up

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One of the most important things to remember is that very few people actually need 100 per cent coverage. When I was in Japan working for Shiseido I designed a range of make-up for the brand which I then had to present in front of all of the company directors. The model that they brought in for me to make up arrived caked in foundation and I really panicked as I presumed she must have really bad skin if she was covering it up so much - I thought that they must have chosen her specifically to test my skills, and the products I had created, to the max!

Yet when I removed her make-up I saw that the only flaws to her skin were some small patches of pigmentation on both cheeks - that was it. Yet she truly thought that she had really awful skin. When I asked her what percentage of her skin she thought that she needed to cover she said 80 per cent, when really it was closer to 20.

This is the same story for a lot of women I have worked with - so many think that they need to cover more of their skin than they really need to. My philosophy is that you don't need to totally mask your face. Instead, I believe that you should concentrate on making the most out of the 30, 50 or 70 per cent of your skin which is great - embellish it with gorgeous blush, clever highlighting and eye-popping colour. Using these techniques, you are detracting attention away from your problem areas and tricking the eye into thinking that you have amazing skin!

It's also important to evaluate and look after the quality of your skin - after all, acne is a passing phase. Again, I've worked with people who might not suffer from acne, yet the quality of their skin has been poorer than someone who does.

When shooting this film, Madeline was taken aback when I told her how good her skin was - while she sees the acne, what I see is skin that's fresh and a beautiful colour with enviable natural luminosity. The way I proceeded to make her up is again the way I would make up the majority of people I work with who suffer from blemished skin, and something that you can emulate in your own routine.

I believe that you should always start off with a light base which really emphasises the beauty of your skin, one that makes it gorgeously dewy and glowing. Try not to worry about the spots - these should be an afterthought to making the rest of the skin look great.

Most importantly, it's really essential that you take time to find the products that work for you, whether that is foundation or concealer, and learn to blend it only into the areas where you need it. Colour and texture of product is so important, it need to blend in seamlessly. Of course this is a lot more time consuming than simply slapping foundation or concealer all over your face, but I think that by doing it this way, and by spending a bit more time on your routine, you can achieve a better and more natural overall look. Plus, your skin is saved from being caked in make-up that it doesn't really need!

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